And yesterday when I ran yum, I found out why there's no xpdf in CentOS 5: it's been obsoleted by a package called poppler-utils. poppler is an xpdf fork, and the poppler-utils package includes the extra utilities like pdftotext and pdfimages. Apparently evince uses the poppler libraries. And if you prefer xpdf to evince (like I do), just compile xpdf (using the
--with-freetype2-includes=/usr/include/freetype2option to 'configure') and copy it into your path.